Craptastic Homemade Parlor Pistol (February 13th, 2015)

I was bored one afternoon and decided to make the most craptacular hardware store material pistol I could think of in the least amount of time. This is what I came up with after 4 hours.

The screwdriver notch in the Barrel Attachment Device™ also serves as the sight.

The guts are made from aluminum which wears in after a few shots. You can see the face of the hammer is molding itself to the nipple which means after a short break in period it will strike the caps completely flat.

After a longer break in period the hammer will need to be replaced, but I only charge $350 for a new hammer. This includes complementary hand fitting by my trained orangutang, Jup.

The gun comes with a hand rubbed oil finish made from a proprietary blend of lathe way oil, high sulfur cutting oil, workshop grime, and fully synthetic 10w-30.

First I started off with some high quality barrel steel. Since this gun is going to shoot .117 pellets, I used a #16 drill bit. I managed to drill the bore 3.125" deep even though the whole drill is only 3.25" long.

The crown on the muzzle is incredibly important for protecting the rifling, so might as well give it a touch with the chamfer tool. My rifling is what was left over from drilling and it looks like about a 1:0.25" twist rate. That ought to really stabilize the pellets.
(On a serious note, I don't even need rifling since this is a muzzle loader.)

Next I parted off the barrel with enough room to turn the nipple for the #11 percussion cap.

Drilling the touch hole with a 1/16" drill. It's a little big, but there's actually a tactical advantage. When you shoot, the pressure in the barrel blows the hammer back and the cap flies off. This allows you to reload around .5 to 1% faster.

Turning the nipple so the cap fits. I think I turned the diameter something like 0.165".

Here's the action. I hacksawed and filed the trigger and hammer from some 1/4" aluminum plate. The spring came from an old screen door kit.

I used a chisel to mortise out the space for the action. Can you believe I found this beautiful piece of figured spruce in the 2x4 rack at the hardware store?! Just look at that grain!

Cocked. No need for a half cock notch since this weapon is for l33t op3r8t0rs only and our finger is the safety.
Also the 16d grip pins meet section 2304.9.1 of the International Building Code for fastening wooden members together.

Here's how the action is after it's fired.
In all seriousness, for as crude as it is, the trigger is pretty nice. It's really light with no creep. I can just touch it with the back of my pinky fingernail and it will go off.

Just a #11 percussion cap has enough power to bury the pellet below the surface of a 2x4 at six feet! Those dents at the top were from inferior caps and definitely not from shooting at 15 feet.

It'll shoot through a tin can too!

I shot at this 3/8" steel plate from 100 yards, but I didn't hear it hit. That's probably because I have some awesome Peltor earmuffs. I'm assuming that hole a little left of center is where I hit, so it looks like I need to adjust the sights.

Such graceful lines.

Improving upon the success of the Mark I version, the Mark II version comes standard with a threaded barrel so you can attach all sorts of l33t accessories! We stock a full variety of loudeners, flash enhancers, and muzzle accelerators.

Also holes have been drilled in the grip to accept a folding shoulder stock made of the finest galvanized fence wire. Just don't stick your thumb between the wires if you're in California.